Saturday, October 13, 2018

Day 11 Update: 8PM 84 degrees Botswana

Fang rests peacefully tonight amongst Lamborghinis, Maseratis, and other super cars that delivered a rowdy group of South Africans to our luxe hotel beside the Chobe River. 

Just when the border crossing from Zambia to Botswana was set to be downgraded from “Utter Chaos” to plain “Nightmarish” the little ferry to Botswana broke down, stranding most of Rally in 100 degree plus noonday sun for two very long hours. We escaped that particular torture but by 10 AM Fang’s dashboard was too hot to touch and my skin felt about the same. Laurie and I discovered the joy of supermarket air conditioning and took a very long time to buy a jar of pickles while our body temperatures came off the boil.

Our group cruised along the Chobe River for sundowners and animals. We agreed water borne safaris have their advantages.
Your Nav is on a hot streak


Little Hot Ferry


Cruising the Chobe River: Going to have a bite!

Elephant Fun




Monkey Business

River Safari

Be sure to check Beastly Fang Home Page for more posts.

Day 11: Ferry, Border, Ferry, Border and Groceries

Today's ferry ride. Border passage and then ferry, and then border passage. Multiple steps and contributions at each end 😅 and 98° 100k today, felt like going for groceries. And the stores are very clean and well stocked. Car needs beverage cooling capabilities. 😋
First Rally Results Posted select this link
Your Driver, Laurie
Ferry ride and on to Kasane and Bostwana


Fang on Ferry



Laurie and our Bardahl Fans!  

Dancing in the Street! 

Pam in Street!

Mowana Resort on Chobe River
Local residents





Be sure to check Beastly Fang Home Page for more posts.



Friday, October 12, 2018

Brief Crew Chief Report

Got a good report from Laurie, our driver and chief mechanic, this afternoon, sounds like Fang is hanging in there.  The roads sound as advertised, everything from smooth pavement to car consuming potholes.  (I recommended she not hit those)  

Laurie reports a few loose bits found here and there that needed a bit of snugging up, but all systems are a go.  Steering and brakes are staying solid and no cooling issues despite heat in the high 90’s. (37° C)  The high heat does make Fang weep a little oil here and there but he has only used 1 quart so far, very acceptable rate for these conditions.  

Navigator Pam has a good handle on fuel burn, it does not look like any of the days ahead will present a range problem with the longest days still leaving 30% in the tank.  

Our team has it under control!
Your Crew Chief, Charlie
Laurie, your driver and chief mechanic!


Be sure to check Beastly Fang Home Page for more posts.

Day 10: Another day, another monkey 🐒🐒

Somewhat startled to find that monkeys do their redecorating at night. Even my blissful martini assisted sleep could not compete with crashing patio furniture.

We have a rest day! While Laurie performed ablutions on Fang I took to the skies, flying over Victoria Falls in a powered hang glider. Rainbows, falls, mist, deep gorges, pools of hippos, elephants, Cape Buffalo and a general rush kick started my day better than coffee.

Then a pedicure followed by a  buffet breakfast spread the length of a soccer field. I would love to see yesterday’s bush schoolchildren turned loose on that feast.

A most relaxing day, topped off by a luxury train ride with five course dinner, numerous beverages and a chance to blow a real steam whistle.

Fang is fueled, washed and loaded for the run tomorrow toward the Botswana border, a unique ferry ride, and certain pandemonium.
Your Nav
PS we did good in first two regularities `
Monkeys do their redecorating at night

Pam flying over Victoria Falls in a powered hang glider


Mandy and Rowland farm where we had lunch
Your Nav about to board the Dinner Train

Your Driver about to board the Dinner Train

Royal Livingston Express Steam Dinner Train

Royal Livingston Express Steam Dinner Train

Video of Royal Livingston Express Whistle

Royal Livingston Express Steam Dinner Train

Friends on the Dinner Train
Looong Dining Car

Dinner Train Dining Car

Be sure to check Beastly Fang Home Page for more posts.

Thursday, October 11, 2018

Day 9: Royal Livingstone Hotel, Victoria Falls, Zambia

Some arrived under their own steam, others towed in, some not here at all. The attrition rate rises as transmissions, shafts, carburetors, mystery things formerly unappreciated, suddenly or more slowly no longer perform their assigned tasks. Our versatile mechanics resuscitate or pronounce the dreaded verdict, “Call Melvyn” to arrange car shipment home. Thus a rental car rally category has been established to join vintage and classic. 

We are ensconced in true luxury on the shores of River Zambezi. Well deserved after an extremely warm run yesterday. 6 AM departure Lusaka, 50 Km on jarring dirt bypass,  stop at “Tooters  Restrooms,  clean, bring your own paper, 2 kwacha,” a tasty tobacco farm lunch and school visit. Add two regularities on rough dirt, the first balked by schoolchildren, the next by cattle. 505 km. Fang barely made our assigned sign in time despite maintaining a swift (for us) pace.

Rally gathered for sundowners by the river and a lawn dinner. A true friend bought me a martini in the picturesque bar. Delicious!
Your Nav


Happy To Arrive! 

School Visit! 



Video of School Children lining the road waving at Fang! 

Ensconced in true luxury on the shores of River Zambezi.

Royal Livingstone Lobby

Royal Livingstone Lounge

Royal Livingstone more Lounge

Royal Livingstone Pool/Riverside

Royal Livingstone Atrium


Be sure to check Beastly Fang Home Page for more posts.

Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Day 7: Fang Log October 9 6AM

We are up early for a 6AM start from Mbeya to Lusaka, probably nine hours. We do not want to arrive in the dark!!

Our hotel last night lovely with a rousing pool side drinks session and good chow. What a contrast from Malawi to see stop lights, banks and the modern world again. 

Laurie is stellar, driving a good rhythm, donning her mechanics overalls for Fang inspections and administering to the sick as well.

Actually we left from Chipata this morning. I am fairly sure we were in Mbeya recently though. Rallys distort space time, sleep patterns, appetites, relationships and focus in strange and wondrous  ways. We navigate, not by road maps, but distance checkpoints. Five kilometers to a Puma fuel station, straight on to a police barrier, turn left at the third roundabout, 36.74 km IPONGO mark, and today’s favorite, 4.17 km Large Chicken in Middle.

Our passage through east Africa forms a slide show more than a movie. We rush onward in our separate space capsules, some fast and sleek, others slow and steady. Then we were shelter together, join in triumph and tragedy, pass the wine and sympathy, bless our cars, our stomachs, and pray for sleep and clean laundry.
Your Nav
Leaving Chipata

Chipata to Lusaka today




Luangwe Bridge - Why?


On the road to Lusaka

"Large Chicken In Middle" rally navigation point


Be sure to check the Beastly Fang to see if there might be a more current log.

Monday, October 8, 2018

Day 6: Fang Log October 8 6AM

Laurie has now earned both her truck and night driving badges. She attained the first on her thousandth successful petroleum tanker pass during our eleven hour run toward the Malawi border. We traveled through pleasant landscape punctuated by hundreds of roadside villages teaming with young people, motorbikes, petal bikes, foot traffic, HUGE trucks, merchandise and opportunist traffic cops all too eager to extract shillings.

After our safari we collected our cars and pointed south, enjoyed a cool morning run, stopping for a group picnic at a farm.As is often necessary, the rally group overnights in different hotels. While some lounge by pools, others get less of the advertised luxury. We just chalked up the Vamos Hotel in Iringa to catagory B and requested staff bring us a light bulb. 

In Mbeya half the group were hauled in vans to an “adjoining” lodge after checking in to control at rally central. Nice place, unfortunately our driver did not know it’s location. Ninety minutes of darkness, bouncing on quite bumpy dirt roads, fuel gauge on empty.  Laurie and I, weary travelers, now thirteen hours on the road, collapsed In our bungalow and requested another light bulb.

Good run to the Malawi border, then words fail me. 
“Utter chaos” seems too frivolous to describe the next four hours. The film “King of Hearts” comes to mind. 

Malawi. Good roads, few trucks and police. A very big lake. Young people walk. Boys ride bikes. Villages highly social, not much technology, a few satellite dishes per village, less material wealth. Pigs, goats. A stunning mountain pass on a rough road. 

Delayed by our border games, we made the last kilometers in darkness, uncomfortably aware the road was shared with unlit children and animals. The Grand Palace Hotel lives up to its billing and we are all reunited, even friends who were towed 90km to join us.

Your Nav

Let’s torque tires.

Friends discussing borrowing fuel from Fang.
Mustang thought they were out of fuel. 
Actually line frayed through. Fixed now.

We formed a Fangio team, The Juanderers.

Jock and knob hills Malawi
Field Trip

Malawi. Good roads, few trucks and police, boys ride bikes.

About to pass one of the thousand petroleum tankers during
our eleven hour run toward the Malawi border
Wonderful locals in Zambia!  As seen in the Rally Round Blog!


Be sure to check the Beastly Fang to see if there might be a more current log.